When I was seven, my mom took my sister and I to Poland for the first time. We also bought winter coats for the first time, along with boots, mittens, and scarfs. That year, we spent our Christmas break there, plus a few days extra, so I remember having to pack up a few school books and worksheets along with the new clothes that I had never worn (and a my trusty Snoopy). As kids, this was only our second time ever on a plane. The first trip was a quick practice one: Houston to Corpus Christi and back. That was only 215 miles one way, and only about an hour in the air. Houston to Warsaw, Poland? 5,595 miles, which is about 11 hours in the air. However, that’s never a non-stop flight, so then you have to consider time spent running around in airports and waiting. . .
That being said, I was a little kid back then, and what did I know? First off, as a kid, I needed much less space. I remember being able to curl up on my side and comfortably fit in just the space of two seats. This was also back in the day when planes flew at only half-capacity so my sister and I would each take over a window row while my mom sat across the aisle in one of the center sections. I had my books and my Gameboy and I was content either reading, doodling, or gaming between naps or meals. Basically, the flight and travel was just another part of the adventure for me back then. At that point in time, even retrieving my luggage was fun. (Where I am in my life now, however, I look back and think of how brave my mom was to take us to Poland on her own. First of all, Poland was still under Communist rule at that point, and besides that, she was juggling two crazy kids around on an international trip. How she ever decided that she could do it is beyond me. But I am glad she did.)
Mom made sure that our mittens and extra jackets were packed in our carry-on bags, but even still, winter greeted us loud and clear. At the Warsaw airport, the planes stop a little way from the terminal so we had to walk down from the plane to a waiting bus. Even bundled up, we were not completely prepared. But then we got to go to Grandma and Grandpa’s house. We were taken care of, fed and loved. My mom and her parents swapped stories and caught up a little as I took in the faces of the grandparents that I mostly remembered by voice alone, and then we all went to bed.
The next couple of weeks are a blur for me, but there are a few moments that stand out distinctly.
First off, we realized we had more winter shopping to do. My mom took us to a children’s store and we had to battle with Communist clerks to get things in our size. There was a total lack of training in customer service at that time. We bought warm socks, long underwear, and some puffy coats.
We got to eat all kinds of warm comfort foods during this time. Babcia would make her amazing tomato soup, gołębie (which literally translated means pigeons, but I assure you, it is 100% pigeon free), kompot (fruit drink served warm), or other goodies. However, we also tried out Polish ice cream for the first time. My sister and I got ridiculously good at spotting the word “lody.” If there was ice cream to be had anywhere around, we wanted to be a part of it. I mean, they have flavors like hazelnut (orzechowe), lemon (cytrynowe), cream (śmietankowe), almond (migdałowe), coconut (kokosowe), mint (miętowe), sour cherry (wiśniowe), strawberry (truskawkowe), or wild strawberry (poziomkowe). And they use the real deal. It is super creamy and smooth, and you get real nuts or fruit to flavor your ice cream or sorbet, none of this fruit-flavored business. Oh, and if you ever get to go, make sure you ask for “lody na gałkę.” That’s the ice cream by the scoop rather than the stuff you can get out of a machine–much, much better that way.
We spent Christmas at my grandparents’ place. They got a tree and had it decorated for our visit. It was a real tree, and it was sprinkled with tinsel and little ornaments. Along with that, they had little candles attached to the ends of the tree branches. That’s not something you see anymore. Sure, there are all kinds of safety issues with that practice, but it was oh-so-pretty. We got to participate in the Polish practice where you open your first present on Christmas Eve night (after you see the first star). That was a big hit with us kids. Also, we got to spend time cutting out paper snow flakes, which seemed appropriate there, seeing as it actually snows in Poland, and they have a great tradition of paper cut-outs there.
This was also the first time that my sister and I got to check out the church my family had been attending for ages. It is the building that my grandparents were married in, and where my mom was baptized and received her Catholic rites. It was almost overwhelming to walk around in there as a child. I remember it having a huge ceiling, hard wood benches, marble floors, and various areas where you could stop and pray to the Saint of your choice. As soon as you walked it, you just wanted to whisper. No one had to say anything to me to be quiet in there.
I’ll always remember one night my grandpa came down with my mom, sister, and I for a walk around the neighborhood. On the way back, he commented on how the fresh snow was perfect for packing down, not like the the snow from a couple of days ago. So my sister and I promptly began making and hurling around our first snowballs. We targeted the buildings, one another, and even Dzadek. He was wearing a long dark coat and I got a kick out of how you could see the outline of where we’d smack him. He was a good sport about it and just chuckled in his deep grandpa way.
I loved the snow. I loved how it fell, how it transformed the city, how it tingled when it hit my face. I loved how in a snow storm, the lights would become these big soft halos of their former selves.
I was even more taken with winter when my mom and her best friend Ewonka took us to Zakopane. It is a ski town, with hills and mountains to explore, hearty meals at taverns, alpine architecture, and loads and loads of beautiful scenery. On my first visit there, we stayed in a small bed-and-breakfast attached to a farm. The hot water would sometimes run out, so one of the mornings, we had to bathe out of a bucket. I was mesmerized when taking a night walk–the skies were so clear there that I could see so many more stars then I ever could in Houston. This was also the place where I spooked my mom one night when I started babbling in my sleep. That was my first sleep-talking experience.
Zakopane is the only place I have taken a ride on a horse-drawn sleigh. It is also the first place that I built a snowman, made a snow-angel, helped with the creation of a make-shift igloo, and tried out skiing and sledding.
We were outfitted with borrowed skis, ski pants, and even bigger coats to get the okay to play out on the hillside. While I had fun trying out skiing, it was awkward in so many puffy layers and unfamiliar gear. However, I found that I could pick up much more speed while sledding, especially if my sister and I both got on one sled. So that’s where I spent the majority of my time. On one of my runs, I drifted way off to one side, and when I started walking up the hill, I fell into a snow cave. There was a little bit of water run-off that had melted this hole into the snow, and once in, I figured if I just kept walking up-hill I’d eventually get out. Which I did. I eventually just popped my head out and climbed out. I’m pretty sure I had my mom a bit worried though for the few moments that I disappeared. Sorry, mom.
One last Zakopane moment: While walking around one day, this little dog came running up to us as if it knew us. He was so excited to see us any time he saw us, so we temporarily adopted him. We named him Szmaty, which means rags (He had a few different colored swatches of color that made him look a little like he was patched up.) and even took a picture with him.
Looking back on it now, I realize that it took a lot of people to make my first trip out to Poland so memorable. I’m really grateful that everyone took us in and helped us out.